Calibration: How close is close enough?
TL;DR: 1/4” off one line of the 16x24” box is 99% accurate across your whole mat. Use this: Setup and Calibration Guide, Section 10 to get your calibration grid.
And now, the rest of the story:
I had to wear my “Finished is better than perfect” shirt for this week’s video. I am a huge fan of Angela Walters and this saying of hers is one of my favorites. In fact, I have said it in several of my videos referencing your calibration and saying it doesn’t have to be perfect…but I never really have defined at what point you can call yourself “finished”. I’m remedying that in this week’s blog post and video. The video will go live 5/2/2021 at 1:30 pm Central time. You can find the video here when it goes live but I’m also going to attempt below in written form.
Let’s first back up a bit to explain calibration a little bit. You remember when you were printing patterns and you needed to check that the 1 inch square (or 2 inch or 4 cm or whatever) was actually the size it was supposed to be to make sure your pattern printed accurately? Well, in printing, we could pretty much count on making our settings “print at 100%” and things would be accurate. Occasionally, there’d be a little adjusting to do depending on your printer, but it was generally how things worked. In projecting, the process of calibration is to figure out our projector settings that will give us that same accuracy. But the variables in projecting-aspect ratio, resolution, throw distance, throw ratio, etc. means we each have to figure out the setting that works best for our set up.
A printer in good working order will always print a square image. But since projectors are rather infinitesimally adjustable, our first goal of calibration is to get a square image. This is something I cover in this post and the connected video. But, to keep this shortish, the reason our image needs to be square is fairly obvious in the picture below that a Projectors for sewing group member created. If that were a pattern piece rather than a rectangle, you can see that an image that isn’t square would cause your pattern piece to be distorted.
Thanks, Dan Oen!
The second main goal of calibration is to figure out the zoom percentage that makes your pattern an accurate size. With printing, this is easy-100%. With projecting, part of that percentage is determined by your projector’s throw ratio and partly by the distance from your lens and is probably combined with some other factors I don’t understand at all! So we have to do a bit of trial and error to figure out what zoom percentage to use.
We use a calibration grid, shown in the picture below, to figure out the zoom percentage. Since 1 digital inch is 1 digital inch across any file you open in a given program, we can use this to figure out the zoom. The calibration grid has gone through several iterations, making it easier to use and more accurate. This type of grid allows us to focus on the important parts without being too distracted by grid lines. I’m adding a picture of the calibration grid here for demonstration purposes but just, as an aside, this version of the calibration grid IS NOT accurate. Please use the version found here if you’re actually needing to download and use it. Thanks, Sasha Sewist, for creating it! So you can see on your screen that those tiny squares in the center should be 1”. I can almost guarantee they are not 1” on your screen right now. It becomes pretty self-evident that the right zoom percentage is necessary for accurate sizing when you look at this.
Do not use this screen shot version to calibrate. Find the accurate, PDF version here.
OK, so, now we understand why we need to calibrate. And an accurate calibration seems pretty important if we want well-fitting patterns. But just how accurate do we have to be? Is this the time to pull out the perfectionist in you? Is this the time to say “eh, close enough”? That’s the meat of what I want to talk about today!
Like many of our discussions surrounding projectors, there’s a bit of nuance here depending on your needs and set up.
A historical costumer working with the small pieces of a corset but using 8 pieces to make the one garment is going to need to be more precise than someone using 2 small pieces to make a child’s shirt. 8 pieces that are each 4/25ths off sewn together with perfect seam allowance will end up being off by about an inch and a quarter by the time the garment is done! 2 pieces off by 4/25th each would only be about a third of an inch off in the end. It’s that exponential effect again.
Someone sewing well-fitting wovens will likely need to be more precise than someone who sews more with knit or sews loose-fitting clothes.
And then we have human error…
I am the first to admit that my cutting and sewing is really not that precise. To me, getting an absolutely perfect calibration is a little bit silly when I know my sewing won’t be perfect. To you, maybe that perfect calibration gives you the wiggle room in your cutting and sewing to be a little less perfect.
Approaching the point here.
Forgive my lack of mathiness here but, basically, there’s a kind of exponential effect with any misalignment during calibration. Something that is only a little bit off in one part of your image will get more and more “off” the farther it gets from the spot where it’s misaligned. And the bigger the pattern piece, the more “off” it will be. For instance, if something is 8 inches and 2% off, it’s 4/25ths of an inch off. That’s fairly infinitesimal. But if something is 24 inches and 2% off, that’s almost half an inch off. That would make a big difference! This is why, in printing, that 1” square needs to be bang on-the bigger the pattern piece in relation to that 1” square, the more exponential the effect of it being slightly off.
The general rule of thumb is that the smaller the box, the more it needs to be perfect. I mean, I feel like Mel Gibson really sums it up here:
Fuyo Amy Wantanabe, an admin on the Projectors for sewing group, once said “ the squares need to be right on, the rectangles being a bit off is OK.” And Sasha Sewist added “The amount of misalignment on the rectangles will not be very much if the squares are accurate.”
The smaller the box is, the more exact it needs to be. So the bigger boxes can be a little off. How much off? By Sasha’s calculations, if you’re 1/4” off one line of the 16x24” box, you’re at 99% accuracy! That’s kind of the minimum we’re looking for when you ask “is this calibration good enough?” in the group. And it’s why you’re often asked to show the biggest rectangle possible on your mat when you ask for help. I generally look at that highlighted line, the 20x30” box, to see if it’s 1/4” or less off. That’s usually attainable and over 99% accurate!
It can be a lot of work to get your projector calibrated, especially the first time. There’s a lot of factors that play into each other for us to get accurate projections. But the end result is so worth it! I hope if you’ve been worried about getting your projection completely accurate, this eases your mind some and you’re able to relax some about it. And I hope that if you’ve heard me say “finished is better than perfect” before about calibration but weren’t quite sure if you were close enough, you have a better idea of what you’re aiming for. And if you read this and are now thinking that your set up isn’t quite accurate enough, it’s easily remedied! Ask for help from the Facebook group if you need it. I have full faith that you can do it!
‘Till next time, friends,
Branalyn
Interview with a Designer
This week’s video is a Zoom interview with my friend, Cathleen. It launches 4/25 at 1:30 Central time. If her face and voice are familiar, she’s done a swap with me, we host The Small Business Sewing Podcast together, and she has her own YouTube channel, Sunny Mountain Patterns. However, her main focus is not the podcast or the YouTube channel! She is a mom, has a 9-5 job, is pattern designer, and has created a course for other pattern designers wanting to make projector files. She’s a busy lady! I’m very grateful she took the time to do this with us.
I posted on my Facebook page and on the Projectors for sewing Facebook group, asking for questions for pattern designers. There were quite a few, many variants of “why don’t designers include {insert feature here}?”, questions about how designers choose sizing, how the process of designing works, and some more projector-specific designing questions.
So Cathleen kindly took us through the whole process of how you design a pattern, how designers make patterns digitally, and what designers should be looking for if they are making projector files! There’s so much more that goes into it than I ever could’ve guessed…and I knew it wasn’t a quick process.
It was fascinating to know how things work from a designer’s perspective. And, designers, there is information for you, too! At the end, we talked about what projector sewers really need in a pattern. You can find more info in this video Cathleen made on her channel and even more in her course for designers. You can also find her Facebook group for pattern designers here.
If you’re looking for an excellent projector file, she has great ones! I did a review for her on her channel and you can see just how amazing they are. If you want an awesome pattern for yourself, find them here. And if you want to watch the interview, you can do that right here:
Personal life note, if everything goes to plan, we are moving next month! I should have enough content ready to go to get May videos out and I hope to stay on track for June but I’m gonna cut myself a whole lot of slack as we move! Also in May, we will hit the one year anniversary of the Dailey Sews & Stuff channel! May 11, 2020 is when my first video launched. Since that’s smack in the middle of crunch time for packing, we won’t have a celebration. But, hopefully, we will be celebrating 4,000 hours at the end of June! We’ve got the interactive pen video and giveaway coming up around that time to celebrate the monetization of the channel AND that will mean I move forward with the plan to buy yet another projector for some videos and another giveaway in the fall!
Thank you all for your support! See you next time, friends,
Branalyn
PDF Stitcher Part III:
The New & Improved PDF Stitcher Tutorial
Or The Ultimate Projector Tool!
Is that enough titles? There really isn’t enough you could say about the PDF Stitcher! If you haven’t seen it yet, you have got to know about this Projector sewing gem! Charlotte Curtis, a member of the Projectors for sewing group, created this wonderful app to allow Windows and Mac users to digitally put together PDF patterns! It has since grown so that the newest version still accomplishes that task, as well as adds margins, and preserves layers but now also can alter lines to thicken them, change color, change line style, choose which layers to keep and which to discard, and so much more!
You can find PDF Stitcher at www.PDFStitcher.org, with a download link right at the top of the page! In the “Support” section, you can find ways you can help support Charlotte’s work, including a donation link to say “thank you.” You’ll see a familiar face if you check out the tutorials section. And there will be a new video added there shortly!
If you haven’t seen it yet, here is an interview I did with Charlotte back when version 3 was just being released. You can hear about the creation of PDF Stitcher there:
You can also see the tutorial for version 3 in this next video. I don’t cover all this ground again in this week’s video, so definitely check this out if you’re brand new to PDF Stitcher.
And then Part III, releasing 4/11/21, covers all the new and improved features!
One big thing I failed to mention in the video is that you can change line thickness by inches or cm as well as points. While I used 3 points each time to change my line thickness simply for visibility, you could very easily use this feature to add a seam allowance to a pattern that comes without one! Make the line thickness the seam allowance you want to add, then cut along the outside of the line. Voila! Seam allowance!
Cathleen and I interviewed Charlotte on The Small Business Sewing Podcast, as well. That podcast hasn’t released yet but you’ll hear a bit more about the new features Charlotte was working on then and what plans she may have for the future! I’ll try to remember to come back and link when that releases.
I hope these videos helps you access all the features of the amazing PDF Stitcher! As is nearly always the case, there are even more resources for this available in the Projectors for sewing Facebook group. They created a wonderful spreadsheet you can use to see what settings others have found useful for specific companies and patterns when Stitching them. Definitely check there first if you have a question. You can always ask me in my Facebook group, in the Projectors for sewing group, or leave a bug report for Charlotte on the PDF Stitcher website.
Till next time, friends,
Branalyn
Live! An Epson Unboxing
I am planning an unboxing for my new Epson 595WI on Sunday, March 28 at 2:00pm over on the YouTube Channel! (Click that link or the video below to have YouTube remind you when the video is live!)
I have a lot of things to cover:
The actual unboxing
Going over all the goodies contained
Pete Norris, who sent me the box
Why I now have 3, yes THREE, projectors
Updates on where the channel is now
What I have planned for the channel in the next few months
Some quick thoughts about calibration, to be explained more in a future video
Info about the official website launch (yes, this website right here, you’re ahead of the curve if you’re here already!) coming soon
A little life update-house, moving, other ventures, etc.
And, here’s where you come in, and the part I’m really hoping comes together
Hopefully some Q&A about USTs, projectors in general, and all that kind of stuff as we make it a two way conversation!
Sad box…just sitting there...waiting to be opened…
The box came yesterday, Wednesday, and it’s just sitting there, sadly, waiting for me to open it. And I have somehow punished myself by making myself wait until Sunday to open it!
I have plenty to keep busy with in the meantime, however. Even though the live on Sunday will be video 3 for this month…well, 2 because the first got bumped to February…I do need to get some recording done during naptime Friday for some of next month’s videos, as well as some work on another couple projects. And, you know, 3 kids, a husband, a house, laundry….that all still exists.
Anyways…it’s late and I’m basically just rambling instead of going to bed. If you have made it to the end here, you are a serious trooper.
See y’all Sunday!
Unraveling the Knoxville Top
This post contains affiliate links.
So…have I announced yet that I’m working with the pattern company Pattern Niche?
Pretty sure I have hinted but haven’t said anything yet.
My first video with them comes out Thursday, 3/18/21.
So, surprise! I’m working with Pattern Niche’s YouTube channel, making videos for their channel occasionally, as well as my own. The first video I tackled was to compare the two knots of the Knoxville Top and then make a tutorial for creating both knots. They have a women’s size, girl’s size, or a bundle of both! It’s a fun and flattering top that looks so much more complicated than it really is!!!
You can read all about it on their blog.
And watch on their YouTube here.
I’ll update this post with specific links as soon as it’s all live! Thank you for your support!
EDITING TO ADD:
Well, I did make a video for them. But it will now come out as a two parter. Video 1 on the Bottom Knot will be out soon. Video 2 on the Twist Knot will be out later because I need to re-make it. They caught a pretty big mistake I’d make in construction! Oops! So that no one else repeats my mistake, I’ll remake that part and it will come out as a Part 2 later. Links still to come.
THANK YOU!!!
We’ve hit 1,000 Subscribers on YouTube!!!
WOO HOO!!!!
I made a thank you video over on Facebook. I’m not sure that fully shows how thankful I am but I really am so, so thankful for all your support!
I do have a month long celebration planned in the fall, complete with giveaways! More details on that much later. But I did want to give that small tease because I have already been talking to some people and working on that a bit!
Interview with Missy Pore of Projectors for Sewing
This month has been a tad crazy. I moved my release days from Tuesday to Sunday, purely by accident the first time and then stuck with it. So my plan to release on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th Tuesday of each month doesn’t always translate right to Sundays. I would’ve released the Inkscape video on 3/2 but it went out 2/28 and now this video releases 3/14 rather than 16. I do have a quick tip video planned for the last week this month so it won’t be just the one video released this month.
Anyways, this video is certainly worthy of being the only video released this month, though, because I finally sat down and interviewed THE Missy Pore, the revolutionary that started all of this! I’ll link that below but first a few helpful links:
Video goes live Sunday, 3/14, at 1:30 pm Central…whatever that means in your time zone and with the nightmare of time change tomorrow. The good news is, you can follow the link and let technology do the math for you! It will remind you when the video releases and I’ll do my best to be watching along with you!
Grading in Inkscape
That’s right, the post title says Inkscape! And, no, I haven’t figured that program out yet. This post is a little different from the usual because my friend, Cathleen, from Sunny Mountain patterns and I decided to swap some video! She’s a pattern designer, she understands Inkscape, and she’s here telling y’all how to grade just one size bigger or one size smaller than a pattern may include using Inkscape.
While I would love to write a detailed blog post breaking down her video like I do for my own, I don’t understand Inkscape enough to do that yet! So I am inserting the video here for your viewing pleasure.
Please be sure to go over to her channel, Sunny Mountain Patterns, and subscribe. And then, while you’re at it, subscribe to our joint venture, The Small Business Sewing Podcast! We will be bringing you Season 1 every Tuesday in March, April, and May and we have some really excellent information to share with you from some really amazing guests. Then you can check out Cathleen’s Etsy shop. Can’t wait to see you on all of the channels!
Till next time friends,
Branalyn
Unboxing and Setting Up an Epson UST
***Please note that many links in this post will be affiliate links. While they cost you nothing extra, they do provide a bit of income for me. Income that helps keep me making videos and writing posts, so thank you for supporting me in that way!
Let’s set the scene, shall we?
You were in a pattern group, scrolling along, and you came across the idea to use a projector to project your pattern for sewing. Thinking how great this was, you joined the Projectors for sewing group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/ProjectorsForSewing/. (While you were joining groups, you also joined the Dailey Sews & Stuff Friends group www.Facebook.com/groups/DaileySews, right ?) You read the announcements, just like you were told to, and then...you got super overwhelmed. In the posts, people seemed to be talking about Ultra Short Throws a lot and something about eBay so you went there and ordered one and now you’re wondering “now what?”
I feel ya, confused lady. It’s a lot to take in when you first discover projector sewing!
Well, fear not! I’m here to tell you the next steps! Keep reading this post or watch the video below (or both!) and I will have you cutting and sewing in no time! Please note: While you can use a smartphone or a tablet to connect to some Ultra Short Throws, most have the older ports that more easily connect to a laptop. There will be a future post/video about mobile devices and projectors but I’m going to use the word “computer” in this post and am only going to be showing the steps with an actual computer. Either a desktop or a laptop will work, as long as you have the correct ports (we talk about this, don’t worry). I use a Windows 10 laptop so any shortcuts and screenshots will reflect that. Older Windows operating systems should work extremely similarly. Macs also work but you will have to know how to find some of the settings on your own.
Before I give you the steps for setting up your Ultra Short Throw projector (UST), I want to quickly explain what one is.
A UST is a projector designed to need very little space between the lens of the projector and the surface you’re projecting onto. Since “throw” is the distance between the lens and the surface, the name makes perfect sense! In normal operation, these projectors are mounted onto the wall that they project onto and are often used in schools and business conference rooms. In our sewing application, they are set on the cutting surface itself or slightly elevated from it (don’t worry, we get into this more later). Many of them are interactive with pens or even touch for newer versions. They are also extremely expensive, ranging from right around $1,000 to upwards of $4,000, but older versions are fairly easy to find used when schools or businesses sell their old ones. Many of us in the Projectors for Sewing group have found a used UST on eBay or other sites (eBay aff link) for a tenth of what they cost new.
Don’t be surprised when your UST arrives and it’s bigger than you expected! While they are all slightly different, this one is an Epson model 455WI and is about 18”x15”x6”. The lens is under the little hood section and the buttons for use are just in that top right corner when you look at the picture. There’s a panel that comes off just below the buttons and exposes all the ports for plugging the projector into power and your computer. Not all USTs will have this exact panel but all will have a spot to plug the cords in. (More on plugging in cords later, too.) Under the panel, there’s the fan port where the projector blows out hot air to keep the computerized parts inside cool enough to function. Air comes in through the air filter on the left. Inside that left hand door is the filter and also the focus lever. While all USTs will have a focus lever, if yours isn’t a similar Epson, you may have to hunt a bit for it! The last two important things to show are on the bottom and the back.
Some Epsons have this hump on the bottom that make it less stable to stand on its end. This is not a deal breaker, but you do need to know it may require more work if you’re planning to just stand the projector on a surface like we will later in the steps. All USTs will have a place to attach them to the mount on the back of the projector. Because they are so big, they typically have these 4 mounting screws to connect a mount. There are several store bought and homemade options for this. Feel free to check the Projectors for Sewing group for ideas! (Also, spoilers, but stay tuned because there will be a collaboration soon with my husband that will include him creating and selling plans for a mount you or the handy loved one in your life can make at home! There’s also rumored to be cutting table plans in the works. You can go check out The Recreational Woodworker for samples of how good his work is and the other well-crafted plans he has for sale!)
But back to projectors. OK so you’ve ordered your UST, you’ve obsessively tracked the shipment, it’s arrived at your house, you excitedly take it inside...and then it sits in the box for weeks.
Just kidding! Now you begin the steps I’ve laid out below:
Step 1: Open the box.
No, really, open it. This might be the most intimidating step of all but just get the box open and pull the stuff out! You definitely want to make sure you do this well within the return or claims window so open the box, check for damage, check that everything you paid for was actually included. What do you actually need for setting up your projector? Well, there’s the projector. And the power cable. A cable for connecting to your computer. And maybe a remote. For an UST, that’s really it. Other projectors need a mount as well, and that can be helpful for a UST but isn’t necessary. You will need to gather some things from your home to help level the projector later but we’re talking about paper or cardboard or something crafty people will always have laying around. Some USTs may also come with a pen, and that’s something we will explore in the future, but it’s for sure not necessary for our purposes.
If your projector didn't come with the necessary things (power or connection cord, namely) and you’re sure you didn’t already pay for that, go ahead and order those. The power cord is just a typical electronics power cord like this or like this . As far as the connection cord, you may have received one but it might not be the best cord for the job. For most USTs, Projectors for Sewing guru Sasha Sewist suggests using the USB B port/cord to connect to your computer. If a USB B port isn’t available, HDMI is the next best (if your projector has that port) followed by VGA.
When ordering cords, be sure to think about cord length and where you will be placing both your computer and your projector. You may need a very long cord or a cord extender. For USB B cords, check your Cricut or your printer! A normal USB extender will work and you may have one of those lying around, too. Here are some options for buying cords:
Finally, a remote will be nice to have while we set up but isn’t necessary. If you want to purchase one separately, here’s some links to try: Amazon aff link, eBay aff link Though they seem pretty universal, be sure to pay attention to the model number of your Epson so you know the remote is compatible with your projector.
Step 2: Make sure it works.
Again, you’re going to want to do this soon after it arrives so you can be sure to return or file a claim within the window if it doesn’t. While the vast majority of us who have ordered from eBay have done it with no issues at all, we are buying a used electronic from a stranger on the internet so it’s best to just double check things. Place the projector on its bottom and aim it at the floor or at your table that it’s sitting on. Plug it into power and turn it on! If you’ve got a big blue rectangle on your surface, all is well! Take this opportunity to reset all settings. It should be “menu” “reset” “reset all” “yes” for an Epson. Take the time to scroll through the settings and play around with them. You can always reset when you’re done! And this will get you familiar with your projector.
Step 3: Connect to your computer.
As I said in step 1, a USB B cord is recommended here so that’s what I’ll be using. Before we plug the projector to the computer, there’s two more very important steps if you’re using the USB B cord. First, if your projector is interactive,, go to “menu” “extended” and change “USB Type B” to “USB Display.” Next, you’ll likely need a driver for your computer so head to Epson’s website through this link and download this driver. All projectors, not just the interactive ones, will need the driver. Once it’s on your desktop, it’ll look like this:
Double click that icon and follow the prompts to install it. (You can see this in the video at 19:55.)
Now that you’ve got the driver installed, connect the computer to the projector. While you may have heard me say before that I prefer to extend my screen rather than duplicate it, and that is true when using a display cord (VGA, HDMI) to connect, that isn’t a choice when using a USB cord. With a USB cord, the projector is going to show exactly what the computer screen shows. This has advantages, too, because now anything that is a little fuzzy on your projected image can be read on your computer screen. Using a USB cable also seems to eliminate most of the aspect ratio issues, which is why the USB cable is preferable and also why I prefer to extend the screen when using other cables.
You will likely get some pop ups on your computer, a little image that tells you a USB projector is connected and a prompt asking you what to do with the storage device. You can pretty much just ignore these two things. They are telling you what you already know, you’re connected! Your projector should also be showing you an exact duplicate of your screen. If it isn’t, click the “Source Search” button on the projector or the “USB” button on the remote.
Step 4: Determine your throw and “mount”
Most likely, you’ve noticed that your projector isn’t sitting up quite high enough off your cutting surface to give you the size image you want. So we are going to have to raise it up some to give us a bigger image. You will also probably want to move it back away from your cutting surface some if possible. It might be good to set it on a window sill above your cutting table or on a shelf attached to the wall. You might drag over a stool or a utility cart. Maybe you have another, taller table to set behind your cutting surface. Or maybe you just stack some books up on the rear of your table or on the floor. Remember you need a fairly stable surface here so bolts of fabric or a cardboard box probably aren’t the right choices here. In the next step, we’ll be making things level and square so you don’t have to quite have that right yet but do begin thinking about the fact that you’ll need to level things, In other words, avoid a precarious perch.
Don’t worry if your projection falls off the sides of your cutting surface. It is best to have it close to the same size but a little bit oversized is better than a little too small. Once you’re happy with the size of your projected image, let’s move on to calibration!
Step 5: Calibration
This is the last major step before you can use your projector. I know it seems daunting, but we are going to work through it together! You’re going to need the Squares and Rectangles calibration guide in either Imperial or metric to match your cutting mat. You can find the Imperial version here. You can also use the larger guide to Calibration and Set up , including a link both the metric and Imperial versions, written by the absolutely amazing and very giving Sasha Sewist. Or you can join the Projectors for sewing Facebook Group and find the guide in the announcements. All thanks to Sasha Sewist for her giving attitude and amazing calibration genius!
Download the Calibration grid to your computer and save it on your desktop or in a folder so you can find it when you need it. Then, open the file so that it opens with Adobe Reader DC and not in a web browser. If you’re unsure about this, you can watch this video for some Adobe Basics and to make sure you’re using the right program.
But assuming you’re familiar with Adobe, or at least you are now, let’s get on with the calibration. Open the calibration tool and get it somewhat centered on your mat if necessary. Zoom it larger or smaller so that one of the bigger rectangles (close in size to your mat) is roughly towards the corners of your mat. Before we refine that zoom any closer, let’s first get everything squared up. We are going to physically move the projector as much as possible to make the corners of the calibration tool 90°, just like the corners of the squares on your cutting mat or on a quilting ruler. While I show this process in the video, the easiest way to illustrate it otherwise is this link that we can once again thank Sasha Sewist and also Projectors for sewing group member Dan Oen for creating this Keystone graphic.
Once your projection is as square as possible, you may use the keystone adjustment for any slight, final adjustments. Know that using this will degrade your image and may cause issues later, so do as much as you can physically. This is much easier with a UST than it is with mounted projectors! Now that everything is perfectly square, if you plan on moving your projector or cutting surface, now is probably the time to mark things with tape or take a good picture or whatever you’re planning to do that way you can quickly put things in the exact right spot next time and avoid quite a lot of the guesswork the next time you calibrate. If you have no plans to move things, awesome, let’s go on to the next part!
This last part of calibration is getting the zoom percentage correct. It’s easiest and most accurate to start with the larger rectangles. Using the function on Adobe where you type in a zoom percentage, begin typing numbers bigger or smaller than it currently shows until the largest box you can fit on your cutting mat is lining up with the correct measurements. You may type up to a tenth of a percent to get the most accuracy. If you need a smaller box, type a smaller number. If you need a larger box, type a larger number. Keep adjusting by small increments until your box is accurate. While we do want things to be very close, remember that “finished is better than perfect” and small differences are allowable. Think about when you put a paper pattern together, how perfectly have you aligned them? Chances are, you’ve been a little bit off and it was just fine. When in doubt, post a picture of your whole cutting mat to the Projectors for sewing group and you will get help! This step is found at this time stamp in the main video for a better visual instruction.
Once your calibration lines line up with your mat, write down that zoom percentage on a sticky note and stick it on the projector or on your computer so you’ll know every time to type that number in! You’ll also want to make sure you can use Adobe at full screen without issue so follow this quick tip.
Step 6: Test it out!
Last but certainly not least, let’s try this new toy out! Load a projector file pattern and start cutting! May I recommend this pattern from Sunny Mountain Patterns if you have littles? The Toddler Adventure Backpack is an amazing projector file!
If you don’t have a little who would love a backpack, Pattern Niche has some great projector files, too. My one qualm with these patterns is I do wish there was a wide margin around them. This is easily remedied with the PDF Stitcher. Several other companies have projector files, as well, Love Notions, Patterns4Pirates, Ellie & Mac, Made4Mermaids, Little Lizard King, just to name a few! There’s a more robust list in the Projectors for sewing group and new designers are getting on the projector bandwagon every day! Layered A0 files often work as is or with a little help from the PDF Stitcher and Letter/A4 files can now be made into large format using the program as intended! The sky is really the limit now.
Step 7: Learn more
For more videos on how you can maximize your projector superpower, check out these videos, and more on my Pattern Projecting Series playlist on YouTube.
Soon, I’ll be adding a video on how to use the interactive pen feature that many UST projectors, including mine, have! I’ve played with this feature some and I’m excited about the possibilities for projecting and adjusting patterns. While I’m very excited to use my pen, this is in no way a “must have.” Every video I’ve made up to this point, including all the grading and adjusting videos, have been done in the free Adobe with just a mouse and keyboard. If, however, you’ve received a pen with your UST or you have a compatible UST and are interested in buying a pen, stay tuned!
See you next time, friend,
Branalyn